Non-expression
and cultural value
As the
above-mentioned Zeami’s thought, the issue of non-expression is also related to
their sense of beauty and aesthetic value. Shuzo Kuki’s notion of “iki”. In his
masterpiece, “The Structure of ‘Iki’”, he made an analysis of “iki”. Iki
roughly means “chic”, an aesthetic concept current among the fashionable set in
Edo era. He stresses that it is one of the essential values of Japanese
culture. For the lack of English equivalent, Iki is described in numerous ways
to describe; Iki is an expression of simplicity, sophistication,
spontaneity, and originality. It is ephemeral, romantic, straightforward,
measured, audacious, smart, and unselfconscious. Iki is not overly refined,
pretentious, complicated, showy, slick, coquettish, or, generally, cute. At the same time, iki may exhibit any of those traits
in a smart, direct, and unabashed manner.
What seems to be essential in Iki is its
beauty in indirect and ephemeral nature. What is overly showy and ostensible is
“Yabo”, the antonym of Iki. One of the examples of the expression of “iki” is haura,literary
meaning the lining of haori. When the Sumptuary law was issued repeatedly by Edo
government in ancient Japan, people started to design an elegant and stylish
pattern underside of jacket, which is usually worn in and never show outside.